- Ordered a new master cylinder – tried a rebuild kit in the old one but it leaked a bit.
- I was put a notice out on the email list looking for an MGC hood – the one with the bump in it. That way I could get rid of the hood with the hole in it. I didn’t get any response so I decided to stick with the hole. Then Dan did nothing but complain about the hole so I went on ebay and ordered a scoop to put over the hole. The scoop is only 1.75 inches high so it should look pretty good. That should come Monday.
- The engine, tranny and drive train are in.
- I don’t want to wire it until it’s painted. I don’t want paint on the wires. I could go over and prep the inside which I may do. I’m getting anxious, well, have been anxious, to get it back on the road. I probably will go over and wire up the distributor and start and get it going.
- The inside of the engine compartment is white. Real white. This was Dan’s idea also – paint it white so you can easily see the leaks. I explained that it wasn’t any longer a British engine but that didn’t seem to do much. So it’s white in the there. It won’t show with the what will be a scooped hood.
That’s it for now.
Leon,
I’m looking for a winter project and am intrigued by your MGB-V8. Have done a couple of kit cars and such, so I know it’s within my scope. I’m an (inactive) club member but have read your MGB-V8 postings with much interest. Any chance of a visit to see your MGB-V8 and maybe getting some advice from someone who has made the plunge?
John
Of course John, I’ll email you directly.
leon …
I see you put in an aluminium rad. I had extreme problems with overheating – the carb was skin burning to touch! I had the exhaust manifold and secondaries DOUBLE ceramic coated – wow what a difference but still not happy when in traffic hold-ups. So put in a ally rad from Howes racing….now the confounded thing runs too cold! I will be converting a 100mm tach to 8cyl and I saw someone saying that his sticks at 3,000 after installing a Mallory dizzy – any comments on this please?
Sorry for the long wait for a reply – I thought comments would come to my email but I screwed that up somehow and didn’t check it.
Anyway – I now have everything back mounted in and running by the turn of the key. The exhaust valves were bad and all have been replaced, the head totally refinished. I’ve run it in just idling in the garage a few times for quite a long time and what I’ve found is the electric fan will cycle off and on like I expect it to. I don’t have the mechanical fan on there. It doesn’t seem to run as hot as it did. I spent a good bit of time last summer running it while working on the fuel injection software and think I’m pretty familiar with how hot everything was getting. I think the combination of the radiator and having the heads done made the the difference. Oh, and the headers were coated by Swain Tech.
About the tach – the tach just counts the pulses coming into it. If it was a working tach then If the incoming pulse is “dirty” that could through it off. I don’t see (electrically) how the Mallory would mess it up unless there’s the output of the Mallory is so different from what the tach expects. But the way you phrase the sentence I could read it as “the tach worked before, change to Mallory and now it doesn’t”. If that’s what you meant did they go to a dual point system ? If that’s the case I’ll find out in a bit. I’ve got one and was thinking of putting it on mine after I get it back on the road and am sure everything else is good to go. No sense trying to add to the list of problems to chase.
Even at that I don’t see why the dual point would bother it – if set right your dwell would still be the same. The advantage for dual points is they stay cleaner longer because one is turning the circuit on, the other turning it off – so they do half the work and last twice as long before need adjusting/replacing.
leon …