Comments for Leons MGB V8 Special http://leonsmgb.com Wed, 09 May 2012 12:55:21 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.2 Comment on Clutch Update – and I drove it home by admin http://leonsmgb.com/2011/10/clutch-update-and-i-drove-it-home/#comment-1492 admin Wed, 09 May 2012 12:55:21 +0000 http://leonsmgb.com/?p=517#comment-1492 Hi- I remove the HTOB. I used a Perfection 39754 Clutch Master Cylinder from Advance Auto parts. If you put "Perfection 39754" in Google it will bring up a few sources. It's for a 1989 to 1994 Nissan 240SX. It has the 5/8" bore vs the 3/4" that's normally used. That way you need more travel but less force. Turn's out it's not noticable in the pedal once it's together. I had to redrill one of the mounting holes in the pedal box where the clutch and brake master cylinders mount. It means the clutch master is tilted a bit but the difference isn't enough to make a difference. Here's a pic: http://leonsmgb.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/2011-12-14_13-08-56_830.jpg ON the bottom I used a pull type slave cylinder I got from Speedwaymotors.com. It has a 7/8" bore. There's a model without the fittings on the end, I got the one with the fittings - made it real easy to mount: # 556NP102U. It was $56.99. The banjo fitting made it easy to mount. The clutch fork is available from Speedway also # 91018100, also available at a lot of local parts stores. It's listed as a GM Standard clutch throwout fork. The end that the slave cylinder is normally mounted to has to be ground away so it fits between the tranny and car floor. You can see most of it here: http://leonsmgb.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/2011-08-29_15-32-47_483.jpg The mounts at each end have play - it needs to be able to float a bit because of the change in angles as it's used. Here's a couple more pics: Clutch fork, throwout and slace- http://leonsmgb.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/2011-08-29_15-38-45_918.jpg Tranny before it goes in the car with the bracket Terry made for it, also you may have to grind a bit off one of the side of the tranny to get the bracket on - http://leonsmgb.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/DSCN0796.jpg http://leonsmgb.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/DSCN0794.jpg To remove the tranny - undo the drive shaft and pull it out. Unbolt the cross member (need a tranny support under the tranny) and tilt things down enough to get the bolts out of the bell housing. take the cross member off and slide the tranny out. May have to also disconnect the exhaust. The clutch works very nice now, a bit heavier than my HHR SS, but not much different than I remmeber my 327 Impala being years ago. Of course "years ago" helps here. Next time it's up on a lift I'll see if I can get a few more pics of the mounts and such. leon ... Hi- I remove the HTOB. I used a Perfection 39754 Clutch Master Cylinder from Advance Auto parts. If you put “Perfection 39754″ in Google it will bring up a few sources. It’s for a 1989 to 1994 Nissan 240SX. It has the 5/8″ bore vs the 3/4″ that’s normally used. That way you need more travel but less force. Turn’s out it’s not noticable in the pedal once it’s together.

I had to redrill one of the mounting holes in the pedal box where the clutch and brake master cylinders mount. It means the clutch master is tilted a bit but the difference isn’t enough to make a difference. Here’s a pic:
http://leonsmgb.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/2011-12-14_13-08-56_830.jpg

ON the bottom I used a pull type slave cylinder I got from Speedwaymotors.com. It has a 7/8″ bore. There’s a model without the fittings on the end, I got the one with the fittings – made it real easy to mount: # 556NP102U. It was $56.99. The banjo fitting made it easy to mount. The clutch fork is available from Speedway also # 91018100, also available at a lot of local parts stores. It’s listed as a GM Standard clutch throwout fork.

The end that the slave cylinder is normally mounted to has to be ground away so it fits between the tranny and car floor. You can see most of it here:
http://leonsmgb.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/2011-08-29_15-32-47_483.jpg
The mounts at each end have play – it needs to be able to float a bit because of the change in angles as it’s used.
Here’s a couple more pics:
Clutch fork, throwout and slace-
http://leonsmgb.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/2011-08-29_15-38-45_918.jpg
Tranny before it goes in the car with the bracket Terry made for it, also you may have to grind a bit off one of the side of the tranny to get the bracket on –
http://leonsmgb.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/DSCN0796.jpg
http://leonsmgb.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/DSCN0794.jpg

To remove the tranny – undo the drive shaft and pull it out. Unbolt the cross member (need a tranny support under the tranny) and tilt things down enough to get the bolts out of the bell housing. take the cross member off and slide the tranny out. May have to also disconnect the exhaust.

The clutch works very nice now, a bit heavier than my HHR SS, but not much different than I remmeber my 327 Impala being years ago. Of course “years ago” helps here.

Next time it’s up on a lift I’ll see if I can get a few more pics of the mounts and such.

leon …

]]> Comment on Clutch Update – and I drove it home by Nick http://leonsmgb.com/2011/10/clutch-update-and-i-drove-it-home/#comment-1491 Nick Wed, 09 May 2012 11:24:39 +0000 http://leonsmgb.com/?p=517#comment-1491 Leon When you converted from the Mcleod to the external slave, I am assuming that you removed the HTOB, what parts did you use. I am in the same boat and think that this is the way to go. Also, what changes if any did you make to allow you to remove the transmission without removing the engine? Thanks Leon
When you converted from the Mcleod to the external slave, I am assuming that you removed the HTOB, what parts did you use. I am in the same boat and think that this is the way to go. Also, what changes if any did you make to allow you to remove the transmission without removing the engine?
Thanks

]]> Comment on Done for now, put away till spring. by leon http://leonsmgb.com/2012/01/done-for-now-put-away-till-spring/#comment-1478 leon Mon, 13 Feb 2012 15:14:28 +0000 http://leonsmgb.com/?p=525#comment-1478 I do have block huggers and before this rebuild had trouble if it was very hot out and I happened to be stopped for more than a few minutes. But this time I've got holes cut in the wheelwells and (same headers) had them coated at Swaintech(?) in Scottsville. Also had the heads done and have an aluminum radiator now. I changed the radiator a few months before I took it off the road for the rebuild and that did make a difference. Just at the end of last year after the current rebuild I was able to put almost 200 miles on it and one of the days it was 85'. I had no problem at all. I let it sit and idle for 20 minutes and the temp didn't go hot. The electric fan cycled on and off just as you would expect. A couple things in play - just subjective but I've spent a lot of time playing under the hood when I was screwing with the fuel injection and now the under the hood temp does seem lower so I think the swaincoating is doing something. Also the heads had very bad exhaust valves so that would add to the temp and that's taken care of. I'll look and see if there's a good picture of it. I do have block huggers and before this rebuild had trouble if it was very hot out and I happened to be stopped for more than a few minutes.
But this time I’ve got holes cut in the wheelwells and (same headers) had them coated at Swaintech(?) in Scottsville. Also had the heads done and have an aluminum radiator now.
I changed the radiator a few months before I took it off the road for the rebuild and that did make a difference. Just at the end of last year after the current rebuild I was able to put almost 200 miles on it and one of the days it was 85′. I had no problem at all. I let it sit and idle for 20 minutes and the temp didn’t go hot. The electric fan cycled on and off just as you would expect.
A couple things in play – just subjective but I’ve spent a lot of time playing under the hood when I was screwing with the fuel injection and now the under the hood temp does seem lower so I think the swaincoating is doing something. Also the heads had very bad exhaust valves so that would add to the temp and that’s taken care of.
I’ll look and see if there’s a good picture of it.

]]> Comment on Done for now, put away till spring. by John Zoltner http://leonsmgb.com/2012/01/done-for-now-put-away-till-spring/#comment-1477 John Zoltner Sun, 12 Feb 2012 02:21:44 +0000 http://leonsmgb.com/?p=525#comment-1477 Leon, Question: Are your headers 'block huggers' or did you route them thru the wheelwells? Couldn't see this detail in your pics. Also, What is the heat like when you're driving on a warm day? John Z Leon,
Question: Are your headers ‘block huggers’ or did you route them thru the wheelwells? Couldn’t see this detail in your pics. Also, What is the heat like when you’re driving on a warm day?
John Z

]]> Comment on New Clutch Setup or Done with the Mcleod Hydraulic Throwout Bearing HTOB by Mike Barnes http://leonsmgb.com/2011/07/new-clutch-setup-or-done-with-the-mcleod-hydraulic/#comment-1476 Mike Barnes Sat, 11 Feb 2012 17:06:00 +0000 http://leonsmgb.com/?p=431#comment-1476 Leon, Thanks for the response. I think I am going to follow your lead. Regards, Mike Leon, Thanks for the response. I think I am going to follow your lead. Regards, Mike

]]> Comment on New Clutch Setup or Done with the Mcleod Hydraulic Throwout Bearing HTOB by admin http://leonsmgb.com/2011/07/new-clutch-setup-or-done-with-the-mcleod-hydraulic/#comment-1473 admin Thu, 26 Jan 2012 14:29:05 +0000 http://leonsmgb.com/?p=431#comment-1473 Mike - I know your post is old, I was a way a couple weeks and when I got back I couldn't find the piece of paper I wrote down what car the master cylinder was from. But last night I found the receipt. I bought it from Advance Auto Parts and it is item number 39754. I did a search on google to find it and it comes up at a few places, including Advanced Auto. I paid $23. for it but I see on Amazon it's as low as $14. The slave cylinder was from SpeedwayMotors.com. Part #556NP102U. The listing is a UNIVERSAL PULL TYPE SLAVE CYLINDER, 7/8". So I ended up with a 5/8" bore master to a 7/8" bore slave. The typical setup is a 3/4" master and slave. It made a big difference. The clutch is now what I would consider much closer to normal, a bit on the high side, but much more comfortable. With the 3/4" setup is was way to hard, sitting at a light was a real pain. I know some recommend not keeping your foot on the clutch at the light but I've done it that way forever and only replaced a throwout bearing once and that was years ago. I've added some pics in other posts that show the setup. We did have to grind down the length of the pivot arm so everything fit in the tranny tunnel. That's what made the clutch hard to begin with - the old fulcrum length math thingy came into play. And the new master is tilted a bit - if you look at it the mounting holes are not perpendicular with the reservoir. I had to drill a couple new holes in the master cylinder mounting box. It's still tilted a bit, but not enough to make bother anything. leon ... Mike – I know your post is old, I was a way a couple weeks and when I got back I couldn’t find the piece of paper I wrote down what car the master cylinder was from. But last night I found the receipt. I bought it from Advance Auto Parts and it is item number 39754. I did a search on google to find it and it comes up at a few places, including Advanced Auto. I paid $23. for it but I see on Amazon it’s as low as $14.

The slave cylinder was from SpeedwayMotors.com. Part #556NP102U. The listing is a UNIVERSAL PULL TYPE SLAVE CYLINDER, 7/8″.

So I ended up with a 5/8″ bore master to a 7/8″ bore slave. The typical setup is a 3/4″ master and slave.

It made a big difference. The clutch is now what I would consider much closer to normal, a bit on the high side, but much more comfortable. With the 3/4″ setup is was way to hard, sitting at a light was a real pain. I know some recommend not keeping your foot on the clutch at the light but I’ve done it that way forever and only replaced a throwout bearing once and that was years ago.

I’ve added some pics in other posts that show the setup. We did have to grind down the length of the pivot arm so everything fit in the tranny tunnel. That’s what made the clutch hard to begin with – the old fulcrum length math thingy came into play.

And the new master is tilted a bit – if you look at it the mounting holes are not perpendicular with the reservoir. I had to drill a couple new holes in the master cylinder mounting box. It’s still tilted a bit, but not enough to make bother anything.

leon …

]]> Comment on Done for now, put away till spring. by admin http://leonsmgb.com/2012/01/done-for-now-put-away-till-spring/#comment-1469 admin Mon, 23 Jan 2012 15:32:19 +0000 http://leonsmgb.com/?p=525#comment-1469 Thanks John. Went back and forth over the color, up until the day before it was painted I was going to stay with black, at the last minute decided to take one more look through the paint chips and found this Chrysler 300 color. It goes great with the new interior (Autumn Leaf). Here's a pic that you can see my remote oil filter in: http://leonsmgb.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/2011-12-14_13-07-34_590.jpg Also yesterday I went over to Scott S. house (he's in the car club also) and we got his 215 started for the first time. Sounded really good. Always great to hear one run after they've been sitting. He'll be on the road this spring. I started out just having a couple rust spots filled. Whoops. New floors, rockers, parts of fenders and on and on. Whatever you do, don't add up all the receipts! leon ... Thanks John. Went back and forth over the color, up until the day before it was painted I was going to stay with black, at the last minute decided to take one more look through the paint chips and found this Chrysler 300 color. It goes great with the new interior (Autumn Leaf).
Here’s a pic that you can see my remote oil filter in:
http://leonsmgb.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/2011-12-14_13-07-34_590.jpg

Also yesterday I went over to Scott S. house (he’s in the car club also) and we got his 215 started for the first time. Sounded really good. Always great to hear one run after they’ve been sitting. He’ll be on the road this spring.

I started out just having a couple rust spots filled. Whoops. New floors, rockers, parts of fenders and on and on. Whatever you do, don’t add up all the receipts!

leon …

]]> Comment on Done for now, put away till spring. by John Zoltner http://leonsmgb.com/2012/01/done-for-now-put-away-till-spring/#comment-1467 John Zoltner Sun, 22 Jan 2012 15:59:57 +0000 http://leonsmgb.com/?p=525#comment-1467 Leon, Your paint job turned out great! I'm just finishing up my '73 Buick 215 (heads installed, just have to install rockers, pushrods, etc.). Engine looks cosmetically great. All painted up. Bought a shorter water pump housing, compact water pump pulley and longer oil pump gears from D&D). Still have a lot of questions though: How did you address the oil filter interference problem(the metric swivel deal or remote oil filter adapter)? Also, am thinking about a tranny, HTOB, bell housing and such. On the down side, I discovered my '77 B that I bought with such a great looking BRG paint job - has a number of rust related issues that should probably be addressed before the engine conversion. The financial reality of this project is just starting to materialize. Any words of encouragement at this point would be appreciated. Best of luck, John Z Leon,
Your paint job turned out great! I’m just finishing up my ’73 Buick 215 (heads installed, just have to install rockers, pushrods, etc.). Engine looks cosmetically great. All painted up. Bought a shorter water pump housing, compact water pump pulley and longer oil pump gears from D&D). Still have a lot of questions though: How did you address the oil filter interference problem(the metric swivel deal or remote oil filter adapter)? Also, am thinking about a tranny, HTOB, bell housing and such.
On the down side, I discovered my ’77 B that I bought with such a great looking BRG paint job – has a number of rust related issues that should probably be addressed before the engine conversion. The financial reality of this project is just starting to materialize.
Any words of encouragement at this point would be appreciated.
Best of luck,
John Z

]]> Comment on New Clutch Setup or Done with the Mcleod Hydraulic Throwout Bearing HTOB by Mike Barnes http://leonsmgb.com/2011/07/new-clutch-setup-or-done-with-the-mcleod-hydraulic/#comment-1461 Mike Barnes Thu, 05 Jan 2012 13:34:18 +0000 http://leonsmgb.com/?p=431#comment-1461 Hi I am redoing my clutch setup and appreciate your photos. How did the new master work? Can you supply the part number or application? Thanks, Mike Barnes Hi I am redoing my clutch setup and appreciate your photos. How did the new master work? Can you supply the part number or application? Thanks, Mike Barnes

]]> Comment on Update on the MGB Update by admin http://leonsmgb.com/2011/06/update-on-the-mgb-update/#comment-1379 admin Wed, 21 Sep 2011 21:19:09 +0000 http://leonsmgb.com/2011/06/update-on-the-mgb-update/#comment-1379 Sorry for the long wait for a reply - I thought comments would come to my email but I screwed that up somehow and didn't check it. Anyway - I now have everything back mounted in and running by the turn of the key. The exhaust valves were bad and all have been replaced, the head totally refinished. I've run it in just idling in the garage a few times for quite a long time and what I've found is the electric fan will cycle off and on like I expect it to. I don't have the mechanical fan on there. It doesn't seem to run as hot as it did. I spent a good bit of time last summer running it while working on the fuel injection software and think I'm pretty familiar with how hot everything was getting. I think the combination of the radiator and having the heads done made the the difference. Oh, and the headers were coated by Swain Tech. About the tach - the tach just counts the pulses coming into it. If it was a working tach then If the incoming pulse is "dirty" that could through it off. I don't see (electrically) how the Mallory would mess it up unless there's the output of the Mallory is so different from what the tach expects. But the way you phrase the sentence I could read it as "the tach worked before, change to Mallory and now it doesn't". If that's what you meant did they go to a dual point system ? If that's the case I'll find out in a bit. I've got one and was thinking of putting it on mine after I get it back on the road and am sure everything else is good to go. No sense trying to add to the list of problems to chase. Even at that I don't see why the dual point would bother it - if set right your dwell would still be the same. The advantage for dual points is they stay cleaner longer because one is turning the circuit on, the other turning it off - so they do half the work and last twice as long before need adjusting/replacing. leon ... Sorry for the long wait for a reply – I thought comments would come to my email but I screwed that up somehow and didn’t check it.

Anyway – I now have everything back mounted in and running by the turn of the key. The exhaust valves were bad and all have been replaced, the head totally refinished. I’ve run it in just idling in the garage a few times for quite a long time and what I’ve found is the electric fan will cycle off and on like I expect it to. I don’t have the mechanical fan on there. It doesn’t seem to run as hot as it did. I spent a good bit of time last summer running it while working on the fuel injection software and think I’m pretty familiar with how hot everything was getting. I think the combination of the radiator and having the heads done made the the difference. Oh, and the headers were coated by Swain Tech.

About the tach – the tach just counts the pulses coming into it. If it was a working tach then If the incoming pulse is “dirty” that could through it off. I don’t see (electrically) how the Mallory would mess it up unless there’s the output of the Mallory is so different from what the tach expects. But the way you phrase the sentence I could read it as “the tach worked before, change to Mallory and now it doesn’t”. If that’s what you meant did they go to a dual point system ? If that’s the case I’ll find out in a bit. I’ve got one and was thinking of putting it on mine after I get it back on the road and am sure everything else is good to go. No sense trying to add to the list of problems to chase.

Even at that I don’t see why the dual point would bother it – if set right your dwell would still be the same. The advantage for dual points is they stay cleaner longer because one is turning the circuit on, the other turning it off – so they do half the work and last twice as long before need adjusting/replacing.

leon …

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