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	<title>Comments for Leons MGB V8 Special</title>
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	<link>http://leonsmgb.com</link>
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	<lastBuildDate>Sun, 12 Feb 2012 02:21:44 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Comment on Done for now, put away till spring. by John Zoltner</title>
		<link>http://leonsmgb.com/2012/01/done-for-now-put-away-till-spring/#comment-1477</link>
		<dc:creator>John Zoltner</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 12 Feb 2012 02:21:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://leonsmgb.com/?p=525#comment-1477</guid>
		<description>Leon,
Question: Are your headers &#039;block huggers&#039; or did you route them thru the wheelwells?  Couldn&#039;t see this detail in your pics.  Also, What is the heat like when you&#039;re driving on a warm day?
John Z</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Leon,<br />
Question: Are your headers &#8216;block huggers&#8217; or did you route them thru the wheelwells?  Couldn&#8217;t see this detail in your pics.  Also, What is the heat like when you&#8217;re driving on a warm day?<br />
John Z</p>
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		<title>Comment on New Clutch Setup or Done with the Mcleod Hydraulic Throwout Bearing HTOB by Mike Barnes</title>
		<link>http://leonsmgb.com/2011/07/new-clutch-setup-or-done-with-the-mcleod-hydraulic/#comment-1476</link>
		<dc:creator>Mike Barnes</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 Feb 2012 17:06:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://leonsmgb.com/?p=431#comment-1476</guid>
		<description>Leon, Thanks for the response. I think I am going to follow your lead. Regards, Mike</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Leon, Thanks for the response. I think I am going to follow your lead. Regards, Mike</p>
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		<title>Comment on New Clutch Setup or Done with the Mcleod Hydraulic Throwout Bearing HTOB by admin</title>
		<link>http://leonsmgb.com/2011/07/new-clutch-setup-or-done-with-the-mcleod-hydraulic/#comment-1473</link>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Jan 2012 14:29:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://leonsmgb.com/?p=431#comment-1473</guid>
		<description>Mike - I know your post is old, I was a way a couple weeks and when I got back I couldn&#039;t find the piece of paper I wrote down what car the master cylinder was from. But last night I found the receipt. I bought it from Advance Auto Parts and it is item number 39754. I did a search on google to find it and it comes up at a few places, including Advanced Auto. I paid $23. for it but I see on Amazon it&#039;s as low as $14.

The slave cylinder was from SpeedwayMotors.com. Part #556NP102U. The listing is a UNIVERSAL PULL TYPE SLAVE CYLINDER, 7/8&quot;.

So I ended up with a 5/8&quot; bore master to a 7/8&quot; bore slave. The typical setup is a 3/4&quot; master and slave.

It made a big difference. The clutch is now what I would consider much closer to normal, a bit on the high side, but much more comfortable. With the 3/4&quot; setup is was way to hard, sitting at a light was a real pain. I know some recommend not keeping your foot on the clutch at the light but I&#039;ve done it that way forever and only replaced a throwout bearing once and that was years ago.

I&#039;ve added some pics in other posts that show the setup. We did have to grind down the length of the pivot arm so everything fit in the tranny tunnel. That&#039;s what made the clutch hard to begin with - the old fulcrum length math thingy came into play.

And the new master is tilted a bit - if you look at it the mounting holes are not perpendicular with the reservoir. I had to drill a couple new holes in the master cylinder mounting box. It&#039;s still tilted a bit, but not enough to make bother anything.

leon ...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Mike &#8211; I know your post is old, I was a way a couple weeks and when I got back I couldn&#8217;t find the piece of paper I wrote down what car the master cylinder was from. But last night I found the receipt. I bought it from Advance Auto Parts and it is item number 39754. I did a search on google to find it and it comes up at a few places, including Advanced Auto. I paid $23. for it but I see on Amazon it&#8217;s as low as $14.</p>
<p>The slave cylinder was from SpeedwayMotors.com. Part #556NP102U. The listing is a UNIVERSAL PULL TYPE SLAVE CYLINDER, 7/8&#8243;.</p>
<p>So I ended up with a 5/8&#8243; bore master to a 7/8&#8243; bore slave. The typical setup is a 3/4&#8243; master and slave.</p>
<p>It made a big difference. The clutch is now what I would consider much closer to normal, a bit on the high side, but much more comfortable. With the 3/4&#8243; setup is was way to hard, sitting at a light was a real pain. I know some recommend not keeping your foot on the clutch at the light but I&#8217;ve done it that way forever and only replaced a throwout bearing once and that was years ago.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve added some pics in other posts that show the setup. We did have to grind down the length of the pivot arm so everything fit in the tranny tunnel. That&#8217;s what made the clutch hard to begin with &#8211; the old fulcrum length math thingy came into play.</p>
<p>And the new master is tilted a bit &#8211; if you look at it the mounting holes are not perpendicular with the reservoir. I had to drill a couple new holes in the master cylinder mounting box. It&#8217;s still tilted a bit, but not enough to make bother anything.</p>
<p>leon &#8230;</p>
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		<title>Comment on Done for now, put away till spring. by admin</title>
		<link>http://leonsmgb.com/2012/01/done-for-now-put-away-till-spring/#comment-1469</link>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Jan 2012 15:32:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://leonsmgb.com/?p=525#comment-1469</guid>
		<description>Thanks John. Went back and forth over the color, up until the day before it was painted I was going to stay with black, at the last minute decided to take one more look through the paint chips and found this Chrysler 300 color. It goes great with the new interior (Autumn Leaf).
Here&#039;s a pic that you can see my remote oil filter in:
http://leonsmgb.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/2011-12-14_13-07-34_590.jpg

Also yesterday I went over to Scott S. house (he&#039;s in the car club also) and we got his 215 started for the first time. Sounded really good. Always great to hear one run after they&#039;ve been sitting. He&#039;ll be on the road this spring.

I started out just having a couple rust spots filled. Whoops. New floors, rockers, parts of fenders and on and on. Whatever you do, don&#039;t add up all the receipts!

leon ...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks John. Went back and forth over the color, up until the day before it was painted I was going to stay with black, at the last minute decided to take one more look through the paint chips and found this Chrysler 300 color. It goes great with the new interior (Autumn Leaf).<br />
Here&#8217;s a pic that you can see my remote oil filter in:<br />
<a href="http://leonsmgb.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/2011-12-14_13-07-34_590.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://leonsmgb.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/2011-12-14_13-07-34_590.jpg</a></p>
<p>Also yesterday I went over to Scott S. house (he&#8217;s in the car club also) and we got his 215 started for the first time. Sounded really good. Always great to hear one run after they&#8217;ve been sitting. He&#8217;ll be on the road this spring.</p>
<p>I started out just having a couple rust spots filled. Whoops. New floors, rockers, parts of fenders and on and on. Whatever you do, don&#8217;t add up all the receipts!</p>
<p>leon &#8230;</p>
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		<title>Comment on Done for now, put away till spring. by John Zoltner</title>
		<link>http://leonsmgb.com/2012/01/done-for-now-put-away-till-spring/#comment-1467</link>
		<dc:creator>John Zoltner</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 22 Jan 2012 15:59:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://leonsmgb.com/?p=525#comment-1467</guid>
		<description>Leon,
Your paint job turned out great!  I&#039;m just finishing up my &#039;73 Buick 215 (heads installed, just have to install rockers, pushrods, etc.).  Engine looks cosmetically great.  All painted up.  Bought a shorter water pump housing, compact water pump pulley and longer oil pump gears from D&amp;D). Still have a lot of questions though: How did you  address the oil filter interference problem(the metric swivel deal or remote oil filter adapter)? Also, am thinking about a tranny, HTOB, bell housing and such.
On the down side, I discovered my &#039;77 B that I bought with such a great looking BRG paint job - has a number of rust related issues that should probably be addressed before the engine conversion. The financial reality of this project is just starting to materialize.
Any words of encouragement at this point would be appreciated.
Best of luck,
John Z</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Leon,<br />
Your paint job turned out great!  I&#8217;m just finishing up my &#8217;73 Buick 215 (heads installed, just have to install rockers, pushrods, etc.).  Engine looks cosmetically great.  All painted up.  Bought a shorter water pump housing, compact water pump pulley and longer oil pump gears from D&amp;D). Still have a lot of questions though: How did you  address the oil filter interference problem(the metric swivel deal or remote oil filter adapter)? Also, am thinking about a tranny, HTOB, bell housing and such.<br />
On the down side, I discovered my &#8217;77 B that I bought with such a great looking BRG paint job &#8211; has a number of rust related issues that should probably be addressed before the engine conversion. The financial reality of this project is just starting to materialize.<br />
Any words of encouragement at this point would be appreciated.<br />
Best of luck,<br />
John Z</p>
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		<title>Comment on New Clutch Setup or Done with the Mcleod Hydraulic Throwout Bearing HTOB by Mike Barnes</title>
		<link>http://leonsmgb.com/2011/07/new-clutch-setup-or-done-with-the-mcleod-hydraulic/#comment-1461</link>
		<dc:creator>Mike Barnes</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Jan 2012 13:34:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://leonsmgb.com/?p=431#comment-1461</guid>
		<description>Hi I am redoing my clutch setup and appreciate your photos. How did the new master work? Can you supply the part number or application? Thanks, Mike Barnes   
</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi I am redoing my clutch setup and appreciate your photos. How did the new master work? Can you supply the part number or application? Thanks, Mike Barnes</p>
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		<title>Comment on Update on the MGB Update by admin</title>
		<link>http://leonsmgb.com/2011/06/update-on-the-mgb-update/#comment-1379</link>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 21 Sep 2011 21:19:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://leonsmgb.com/2011/06/update-on-the-mgb-update/#comment-1379</guid>
		<description>Sorry for the long wait for a reply - I thought comments would come to my email but I screwed that up somehow and didn&#039;t check it.

Anyway - I now have everything back mounted in and running by the turn of the key. The exhaust valves were bad and all have been replaced, the head totally refinished. I&#039;ve run it in just idling in the garage a few times for quite a long time and what I&#039;ve found is the electric fan will cycle off and on like I expect it to. I don&#039;t have the mechanical fan on there. It doesn&#039;t seem to run as hot as it did. I spent a good bit of time last summer running it while working on the fuel injection software and think I&#039;m pretty familiar with how hot everything was getting. I think the combination of the radiator and having the heads done made the the difference. Oh, and the headers were coated by Swain Tech.

About the tach - the tach just counts the pulses coming into it. If it was a working tach then If the incoming pulse is &quot;dirty&quot; that could through it off. I don&#039;t see (electrically) how the Mallory would mess it up unless there&#039;s the output of the Mallory is so different from what the tach expects. But the way you phrase the sentence I could read it as &quot;the tach worked before, change to Mallory and now it doesn&#039;t&quot;. If that&#039;s what you meant did they go to a dual point system ? If that&#039;s the case I&#039;ll find out in a bit. I&#039;ve got one and was thinking of putting it on mine after I get it back on the road and am sure everything else is good to go. No sense trying to add to the list of problems to chase.

Even at that I don&#039;t see why the dual point would bother it - if set right your dwell would still be the same. The advantage for dual points is they stay cleaner longer because one is turning the circuit on, the other turning it off - so they do half the work and last twice as long before need adjusting/replacing.

leon ...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sorry for the long wait for a reply &#8211; I thought comments would come to my email but I screwed that up somehow and didn&#8217;t check it.</p>
<p>Anyway &#8211; I now have everything back mounted in and running by the turn of the key. The exhaust valves were bad and all have been replaced, the head totally refinished. I&#8217;ve run it in just idling in the garage a few times for quite a long time and what I&#8217;ve found is the electric fan will cycle off and on like I expect it to. I don&#8217;t have the mechanical fan on there. It doesn&#8217;t seem to run as hot as it did. I spent a good bit of time last summer running it while working on the fuel injection software and think I&#8217;m pretty familiar with how hot everything was getting. I think the combination of the radiator and having the heads done made the the difference. Oh, and the headers were coated by Swain Tech.</p>
<p>About the tach &#8211; the tach just counts the pulses coming into it. If it was a working tach then If the incoming pulse is &#8220;dirty&#8221; that could through it off. I don&#8217;t see (electrically) how the Mallory would mess it up unless there&#8217;s the output of the Mallory is so different from what the tach expects. But the way you phrase the sentence I could read it as &#8220;the tach worked before, change to Mallory and now it doesn&#8217;t&#8221;. If that&#8217;s what you meant did they go to a dual point system ? If that&#8217;s the case I&#8217;ll find out in a bit. I&#8217;ve got one and was thinking of putting it on mine after I get it back on the road and am sure everything else is good to go. No sense trying to add to the list of problems to chase.</p>
<p>Even at that I don&#8217;t see why the dual point would bother it &#8211; if set right your dwell would still be the same. The advantage for dual points is they stay cleaner longer because one is turning the circuit on, the other turning it off &#8211; so they do half the work and last twice as long before need adjusting/replacing.</p>
<p>leon &#8230;</p>
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		<title>Comment on Update on the MGB Update by admin</title>
		<link>http://leonsmgb.com/2011/06/update-on-the-mgb-update/#comment-1378</link>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 21 Sep 2011 21:06:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://leonsmgb.com/2011/06/update-on-the-mgb-update/#comment-1378</guid>
		<description>Of course John, I&#039;ll email you directly.
leon ...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Of course John, I&#8217;ll email you directly.<br />
leon &#8230;</p>
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		<title>Comment on Update on the MGB Update by Barrie Robinson</title>
		<link>http://leonsmgb.com/2011/06/update-on-the-mgb-update/#comment-1339</link>
		<dc:creator>Barrie Robinson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 12 Jul 2011 19:43:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://leonsmgb.com/2011/06/update-on-the-mgb-update/#comment-1339</guid>
		<description>I see you put in an aluminium rad.  I had extreme problems with overheating - the carb was skin burning to touch!   I had the exhaust manifold and secondaries DOUBLE ceramic coated - wow what a difference but still not happy when in traffic hold-ups. So put in a ally rad from Howes racing....now the confounded thing runs too cold!  I will be converting a 100mm tach to 8cyl and I saw someone saying that his sticks at 3,000 after installing a Mallory dizzy - any comments on this please?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I see you put in an aluminium rad.  I had extreme problems with overheating &#8211; the carb was skin burning to touch!   I had the exhaust manifold and secondaries DOUBLE ceramic coated &#8211; wow what a difference but still not happy when in traffic hold-ups. So put in a ally rad from Howes racing&#8230;.now the confounded thing runs too cold!  I will be converting a 100mm tach to 8cyl and I saw someone saying that his sticks at 3,000 after installing a Mallory dizzy &#8211; any comments on this please?</p>
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		<title>Comment on Update on the MGB Update by John Zoltner</title>
		<link>http://leonsmgb.com/2011/06/update-on-the-mgb-update/#comment-1338</link>
		<dc:creator>John Zoltner</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 12 Jul 2011 14:17:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://leonsmgb.com/2011/06/update-on-the-mgb-update/#comment-1338</guid>
		<description>Leon,
I&#039;m looking for a winter project and am intrigued by your MGB-V8. Have done a couple of kit cars and such, so I know it&#039;s within my scope.  I&#039;m an (inactive) club member but have read your MGB-V8 postings with much interest.  Any chance of a visit to see your MGB-V8 and maybe getting some advice from someone who has made the plunge?
John</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Leon,<br />
I&#8217;m looking for a winter project and am intrigued by your MGB-V8. Have done a couple of kit cars and such, so I know it&#8217;s within my scope.  I&#8217;m an (inactive) club member but have read your MGB-V8 postings with much interest.  Any chance of a visit to see your MGB-V8 and maybe getting some advice from someone who has made the plunge?<br />
John</p>
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